I was desperately in need of a whole house filter system on our well water supply. There’s no bacteria but, since recently moving into the home, we have had bad smells and red rust stains. Initially, I was able to flush the well long enough to remove the bulk of the rust particles which made the water literally red. I also replaced the filter media in the water softener, which after 17 years or so, was black, nasty and ineffective. However, while a glass of water now appeared nice and clear straight from the tap, overnight the water turned a brown color as the dissolved iron “rusted” out of solution. The iSpring system seemed to fit the bill. I’ve now got the system up and running.Disappointingly, when the system arrived, one of the blue filter housings was broken internally. There's a small cylindrical molding in the bottom of the housing that appears to be heat-welded in place. It was broken off. The filter element inside was still in its wrapping, which is pierced by the molding when the element is pushed into the housing for shipping. It seems that that process broke off the cylinder. A call to iSpring on the Wednesday got a replacement housing on order. When it arrived the next week, it was a completely different housing! Contacting iSpring again and sending photos of the required housing had another one on its way - thanks to Nick. (iSpring are very easy to work with and very reactive. This is uncommon in today's world and welcomed).This time it was the correct one, but it cost about a week and a half in time. I now have some big housings that I'm sure I can find a use for in my workshop as storage! The time delay was not a problem as I had to order a special fitting from TrueValue. I went with Sharkbite fittings and PEX tubing for ease of assembly. Unfortunately, a 1" male thread to a 3/4" Push To Connect fitting is not available in any hardware stores. My system's connection points are 3/4" CPVC and 3/4" copper tubing. That fitting took as long as the housing to come!The Sharkbite approach essentially doubled the cost of the filter system itself, (total parts cost ended up at $907), but saved time and allowed for some easy redesign/refinement as the installation progressed.I suggest you use thread sealant on the NPT threaded fittings. I had a couple leaks at the final test that required sealant to stop them. I have always had trouble with PTFE taped joints and should have used the sealant from the get-go. The Sharkbite Push To Connect fittings worked perfectly first time - impressive. Other reviewers mention the joint between the two filter heads leaks. I didn’t see that (yet).I did have some copper tubing to make up from the accumulator to the WGB22BM, made more complicated as I am adding a spur, to later put in an outside faucet, fed directly from the well. Cutting and soldering takes much longer than PEX!I fitted the WSP-50 sediment strainer upstream of the WGB22BM to pre-filter out the well water’s larger particles. The instructions suggest you can screw it directly into the first filter head of the WGB22BM as it has a 1" male thread. However, to do this the mounting bracket has to be removed because the strainer body interferes with it before the joint is tight. I tried to loosen the bolts and slide the slotted bracket over, but it was too tight. The reason was that the slots in the metal bracket don't actually match the holes in the filter heads! The slots are out of position and the slot's edge actually sits in the bottom of the thread in the self-tapping bolts - disappointing design / quality issue. Having removed the bracket, I then found the sediment filter bottomed out in the filter head before getting tight enough! A quick trip to the store for a 1" male-male nipple and a 1" female-female adapter. This time the sediment strainer fitted OK, though that was the location of the later leaks.I added pressure gauges to each side of the filter system to tell if the elements are blocked and need replacement. I have a 50-35 psi well pump pressure and see no noticeable drop in pressure across the system with clean elements and the tub faucet open.I also added a 3/4" - 3/4" - 1/4" stop tee to be able to sample the water after the filter system and before the water softener.I didn't fit the filter elements until after I'd tested the system and addressed the couple leaks at the threads.Note that you will need Silicone grease (per iSpring) to lubricate the element housing threads and O-rings (instructions say DO NOT USE PETROLEUM JELLY). Fortunately, I have a tube of that grease (Thanks to Harbor Freight).Now the system is up and running, it's doing what was intended - removing the bad odor as well as the dissolved and sediment rust from our well water. The water is crystal clear and tastes great. The water softener was removing a lot of the rust, but that reduces the life of the media inside the softener and doesn't help with the smell and taste.I will be doing a water quality test in a few days after the system has settled down and the hot water tank is flushed through with clean water and will update this review.My only concern is how long the filters last. The sediment strainer is working well and is so easy to drain the particles out into a bucket. The Carbon and Iron elements aren't cheap (~$130-150) and replacing them too often is not going to be an easy pill to swallow. "Replace every 3 to 6 months" per iSpring isn't going to work for me. That’s too loose a guideline. I’ll use the pressure gauges and a water quality test kit, probably taking the system just beyond its filtering capability to minimize cost.UPDATE I: After a day or so, the water is very clean. Unfortunately, I only had one set of test strips left from my “LabTech H20 OK” kit which I used a couple months ago to test the well water. I would have preferred to test the water at the well, just after the filters and after the water softener at the same time. However, the tap water is the most important test.Here are the results in PPM’s. The first reading is the well water, the second is the tap water after the WGB22BM and the water softener…Total Hardness: 100; 0Total Chlorine: 0; 0Alkalinity: 40; 40pH: 6; 6Nitrates/Nitrites: 0; 0Copper: 0.6; 1.0Iron: 5; 0So, the system is doing exactly what I wanted. Awesome!UPDATE II: After a month, the system is still working well. Our well water though has a lot of sediment and after leaving the WSP-50 strainer for a week, the water pressure was noticeably down, observed when running more than one faucet at a time. The mesh was coated with a fine reddish (iron) sludge. Removed it and washed it out with dish liquid and a sponge. Once replaced the water pressure was fine. I now back flush it daily and have only had to clean it once in 3 weeks or so.After one month, there is a 10-15 psi drop across the two Big Blues, presumably due to the smaller sediment that gets through the WSP-50. However, the shower still works well, with a slight, but acceptable, drop in flow while waiting for the well pump to kick in at 35 psi (max. pressure 50 psi). The cold water quality is still great. A slight odor was still noticeable in the hot water, even after draining the hot water tank.Research indicates that there will likely be some bacteria in the tank causing the smell and a dose of hydrogen peroxide will remove that. That's my next task.UPDATE III:After 2 months, my iron immediately after the filter system was 3ppm. However the downstream water softener was helping to maintain the final water quality. The carbon element was still removing the odor, but I put in two new elements after finding significant reddish brown sludge inside both housings. The carbon filter was caked with it on the outside and explained some of the low water pressure. The WSP-50 also gets clogged up and needs frequent cleaning. I cut open the elements to see what they are (see photos). The iron filter is essentially just like my water softener with resin beads inside and the carbon is a relatively solid tube of it with a "sock" around it.I have now developed a back flushing routine and will see how well that works. I run the well water (about 5 gallons each day) in the reverse direction through the filters and out of the WSP-50 drain. That helps remove the sludge in the elements ( as shown by the brown water that drains) and cleans the strainer in the WSP-50 of sludge. The strainer is cleaned so well that I no longer have to disassemble it to clean the filter. Now this won't improve the life of the iron filter, but it does maintain great water pressure. I will see if the combo of the iron filter element and the water softener will allow me to extend the life of the expensive iron element beyond 2 months and will let the carbon run until the water starts to smell to accurately gauge its full lifeUPDATE IV:After another 2 months, I've done some more extensive iron testing, having found a much cheaper iron testing kit with 50 tests. Also, my daily back flushing routine is working well to maintain great water pressure.For the iron testing, at the faucet I have no detectable iron. That is after the iSpring system and then the water softener. At the well, I have at least 5 ppm iron, maybe more. It's usually worse after heavy rains, like now, as more iron is leached out of the soil by the seepage of all that water through it. After the iSpring system, I measured 5ppm also! So once again, after just 2 months, the iron element is fully exhausted. Clearly, the water softener is doing the bulk of the iron removal (I do use salt with rust defense additive and regen the softener every 4 days).I have now replaced the iron filter and will track it's performance over the next weeks, to see at what point it is useless. I did a test immediately after it, having flowed about 10 gallons through the new iron filter element and measured 0.5 ppm Iron - already above the ideal max. of 0.3 ppm!My plan is to fit a sediment and carbon element and leave the iron removal to the water softener, once this new filter is done and see how those perform. The iron elements are too expensive to replace so often and with limited performance.UPDATE V:It's been well over a year and I found the optimum setup. 20 micron dual density sediment filter ($20), carbon filter ($35), then the water softener, with Rust Defense salt. The filter elements lasted a year before I replaced them. The carbon was still working well, but a year seems a good time to put in new ones. The rust content is typically 0 to 1 ppm. I have found that I can get this life out of the sediment filter by backflushing the filters every day with about 3 gallons of water into a 5 gallon bucket using the strainer drain (which also cleans the strainer), flowing the water in reverse with my valves.